Gewurztraminer is a rather motley looking grey, rose coloured grape in the vineyard its wines are perfumed, spicy and highly aromatic.

A controversial wine, the legendary Christies wine auctioneer and Master of Wine Michael Broadbent is credited with noting that Gewurztraminer wines smelled like a tart’s boudoir. It is usually pungent in aroma and relatively high in alcohol, offering up a bouquet of rose petals, geranium, lychee, citrus and pineapple with subtle spices and a touch of wild honey and even pepper and bacon fat in there as well.

The name translates in German as “spice traminer” or “perfumed traminer” and originates from Alsace on the French German Border. The variety prefers a cool climate and is notoriously badly behaved in the vineyard, in that it is vigorous and hard to manage and highly susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew.

In Alsace, the variety produces both dry white wines and the exceptionally sweet styles of Vendange Tardive and Sélection de Grains Nobles.

Gewurztraminer is often over-looked or outright criticised for being too pungent, too alcoholic and too low in acidity to go well with much food, and the French tend to recommend it with their smelliest of cheeses, such as Munster and Livarot.

However, for all its misbehaving, bad press and lack of notoriety the variety is one I find unusual, interesting and challenging.

When planted on a great site, well managed and well made, it is capable of producing delightfully interesting, exotic and enjoyable wines that are something different from the norm.

I also think they have a place with food in Cambodia, alongside the more pungent dishes that involve prahok, herbs and river fish. A combination that for locals is definitely well worth experimenting with.

The extraordinary Zind Humbrecht, 2013 Vieilles Vignes (Old Vines) Gewurztraminer comes in at a very generous 14 percent alcohol and is from vines planted in 1947 by Olivier Humbrecht’s grandfather just west of the small commune of Wintzenheim at the foot of the Voges mountains near the Rhine river border with Germany.

The nose is exotic, heady with pan juices, ginger and spices under the ripe fruit notes, it is a dry style wine but not overly so, with intoxicating fruit and a rich mouthfeel leading to a silky finish on the palate, an exceptional wine to try with a wide variety of Khmer dishes.

Darren Gall has spent a quarter of a century involved in virtually every aspect of the wine industry and the passionate pursuit of the next great bottle continues, gall.darren@yahoo.com