Carnivores can indulge themselves in this swish meatery. Yvonne Liang puts Smith to the butcher’s knife and even discovers a vegetarian option. Photos by Nick McGrath.
Backed by the same guys from the ever popular HiSo hangout Hyde & Seek, it’s no wonder Smith is the newest who’s who hot spot in the Bangkok restaurant scene. If you want to dine amongst the VIPs then you’d better call ahead for reservations because it’s so packed that even the bar stools are taken. There are some serious meat lovers under this roof, which stays true to its warehouse roots. Even the servers wear heavy duty butchers’ aprons – without the splatters of blood.
The menu is filled with meaty options, but we decided on a veggie dish to start the evening. In the fried egg salad (B180) we found a refreshing combination of apple, pistachio, ricotta, and garden greens that was packed with fresh, natural flavours to balance out the heavily spiced dishes we were about to have. Next was the calf’s tongue (B180) with Mexican spice, pressed cabbage, millet & shallots. The small cubes of beef tongue looked so similar to the cubed cabbage cakes that we started playing a guessing game to see who could identify the meat.
Chicken breast (B310) may not sound exciting, but we gave this basic dish a try and were not to be disappointed. Laid over a bed of pearl barley and topped with Chinese olive, Brussels sprouts, oyster mushroom, and a tasty side of deep fried chicken liver, the crispy-skin chicken was definitely the winning entrée that night. Of course we also had to go for something a little more succulent just to grease to engines, the sweet and savory verjus glazed pork belly (B350) did the trick. Be prepared for pangs of guilt after eating the melt-in-your-mouth pork paired with slices of tangy poached pear, spicy lentil, mint and coriander.
We chose something light to bring the meal to a nice end. The Eton mess (B180) is a colorful plate of fresh strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries berries, mixed with bits of crunchy meringue over a praline crust and topped with fresh cream.
Not that Smith is just about meat. One of the reasons people love coming here in groups is the large number of kegs of Heineken or Hoegaarden that can be purchased for your party. It can get pretty loud here so bear in mind it’s not the best setting for a romantic dinner for two.
Smith, 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49
Tel: 02 261 0515-6
Open from 5.30pm to 1am (kitchen closes at 11pm). Parking: valet only. BTS: Thonglor.
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